Bologna

Italy’s food capital, 37 minutes from Florence

Bologna is the seat of the oldest university in Europe (established 1088), the birthplace of ragù alla Bolognese, mortadella, tortellini and tagliatelle, a city of 400,000 people with 40 kilometres of covered porticoes (just inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021), two medieval towers that lean at alarming angles, and a political tradition that earned it the nickname La Rossa (the Red One — both for the reddish-pink colour of its brick buildings and its historic left-wing politics). It is also, by reputation, the finest food city in Italy — which in Italy is saying something.

For Florence-based travellers, Bologna’s most extraordinary attribute is proximity. The Frecciarossa high-speed train covers the 105 kilometres in 37-40 minutes, making Bologna one of the most viable full-day day trips in the country. You can have breakfast in Florence, be eating mortadella at a Bologna market stall by 10:00, and be back for dinner in Florence the same evening.

Getting there from Florence

By Frecciarossa (high-speed train): The fastest and most convenient option. From Florence Santa Maria Novella, Frecciarossa trains depart approximately every 30 minutes (more frequently at peak hours). Journey: 37-40 minutes to Bologna Centrale. Cost: €12-25 one-way depending on booking time and class. Book on Trenitalia.com; advance booking gives significant savings. The train arrives at Bologna Centrale, which is a 15-minute walk from the historic centre (or 5 minutes by taxi).

By Italo train: Italy’s private high-speed operator also serves the Florence-Bologna route at competitive prices. Check italotreno.it for prices and schedules.

By regional train: Slower intercity trains (1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes) are significantly cheaper but less practical for a day trip where time is valuable.

By car: The A1 Autostrada connects Florence and Bologna over the Apennines. Drive time approximately 1 hour 20 minutes but involves significant tolls and an Apennine mountain crossing that can be affected by fog and snow in winter. Not recommended when the train is this fast.

The Piazza Maggiore and the old city centre

Bologna’s principal piazza, the Piazza Maggiore, is one of the great public spaces of medieval Italy. The Basilica di San Petronio dominates the south side — an enormous Gothic church begun in 1390 that was originally planned to surpass St Peter’s in Rome before papal politics intervened, leaving the façade half-finished in its distinctive combination of pink marble cladding (lower) and bare brick (upper). The interior is the fifth-largest church in the world and contains, among other things, the meridian line drawn by Giovanni Domenico Cassini in 1655 — the longest of its kind, running 67 metres along the nave floor, which was used for astronomical observations.

The Palazzo Comunale (City Hall) and Palazzo del Podestà frame the other sides of the piazza, with the Fountain of Neptune (1566, by Giambologna) in the adjacent Piazza del Nettuno — an extraordinarily muscular bronze composition that caused controversy when it was unveiled for its frank depiction of Neptune’s anatomy.

The entire historic centre is largely pedestrian, and the UNESCO-recognised porticoes create a shaded colonnade walkway through almost every street — Bologna claims you can walk 45 kilometres through the city without getting wet. Walking the porticoes in any weather is one of the pleasures of the city.

The Two Towers (Le Due Torri)

Bologna once had over 100 medieval towers — status symbols built by competing noble families between the 12th and 14th centuries. Two have survived substantially intact: the Asinelli Tower (97 metres, the tallest in medieval Italy) and the Garisenda Tower (48 metres, dramatically tilted at a greater angle than the Leaning Tower of Pisa). The two stand adjacent at the corner of Via Rizzoli and Via Zamboni, marking the historic entry to the city.

Climbing the Asinelli Tower: 498 steps to the top, with panoramic views of the Po Valley, the Apennines and the terracotta roofscape of Bologna. Admission approximately €5; no lift, so this requires reasonable fitness and no fear of heights. Open daily 10:00-18:00 (last entry). On clear days the Alps are visible to the north.

The Garisenda is closed to visitors due to structural concerns about its lean (it tilts approximately 3 degrees — Dante described it in the Inferno, Canto XXXI, the same passage as Monteriggioni’s towers).

Food: the real reason to visit

Bologna’s food culture is Italy’s most serious. The Emilia-Romagna region that Bologna leads has given the world parmigiano reggiano, prosciutto di Parma, culatello, mortadella, balsamic vinegar of Modena, lambrusco, and most significantly, the pasta traditions that include the originals for tagliatelle, tortellini, lasagne and ragù (what the rest of the world calls Bolognese sauce).

Mercato di Mezzo (Via Clavature): The restored covered market in the heart of the historic centre. Individual stalls selling mortadella by the slice, fresh pasta to take away, Parmigiano reggiano in all its aging stages, balsamic vinegar, local wine. Good for grazing rather than a sit-down meal.

Mercato delle Erbe (Via Ugo Bassi): A larger, more workaday covered market with fresh produce and food stalls. More locals, fewer tourists, lower prices. An authentic alternative to Mercato di Mezzo.

What to eat in Bologna:

• Mortadella: The authentic article, thinly sliced, is incomparably different from the processed version sold elsewhere. Try it in a tigella (a small flatbread) with stracciatella cheese at any good salumeria.
• Tagliatelle al ragù: The original. The authentic recipe is registered with the Bologna Chamber of Commerce. The pasta ribbon should be the width of 1/12,270th of the height of the Asinelli Tower (approximately 8mm). Order it at any traditional trattoria.
• Tortellini in brodo: Small meat-filled pasta in capon broth. A winter staple and extraordinary comfort food.
• Tigella: Small round flatbread from the Apennine foothills, eaten stuffed with various fillings at lunch.

Restaurants:

• Osteria dell’Orsa (Via Mentana 1): One of the most popular and reliable traditional trattorias, packed at lunch. Cash only. No reservations — queue outside. Expect €20-30 per person, extraordinary value.
• Trattoria Anna Maria (Via delle Belle Arti 17a): More formal, with deep familiarity with traditional Bolognese cooking. Booking advised.
• Drogheria della Rosa (Via Cartoleria 10): Charming setting in a former pharmacy. Good-quality traditional cooking at mid-range prices.

For a quick lunch on a day trip budget, the Mercato di Mezzo stalls offer better quality per euro than most restaurants.

The Porticoes of Bologna (UNESCO)

The porticoed walkways that line almost every street in the historic centre were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021 — the first urban infrastructure of this type to receive the designation. Bologna has approximately 40 kilometres of porticoes within the city, built progressively from the 12th century onward when the expanding university population needed weather-protected streets.

The most famous single porticoed route is the Portico di San Luca — the world’s longest covered portico (3.5 kilometres, 666 arches) running from the Meloncello archway at the city’s edge up to the hilltop sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. Walking the full route takes approximately 1 hour each way and rewards with views over the Po Valley from the sanctuary summit. It is one of the better urban walks in Italy.

For a day trip, the historic centre porticoes (Via Rizzoli, Via Zamboni, Piazza Maggiore environs) are sufficient to understand the system.

Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna

One of the major art galleries of northern Italy, with exceptional holdings of Emilian painting from the 14th century through the Baroque period: Vitale da Bologna, Guido Reni, Guercino, and crucially, Raphael’s Estasi di Santa Cecilia, one of his masterworks. Located on Via delle Belle Arti 56. Admission approximately €7; closed Mondays. Open 9:00-19:00. Allow 1.5-2 hours.

Practical day-trip planning

For a full day from Florence, a workable programme:

Train from Florence SMN: Depart 8:30-9:00. Arrive Bologna Centrale 9:10-9:40.

Morning: Walk to Piazza Maggiore (15 minutes). Basilica di San Petronio (30-45 minutes). Two Towers (30 minutes + tower climb optional). Mercato di Mezzo for mid-morning snack.

Lunch: Osteria dell’Orsa or Trattoria Anna Maria (12:30-14:00).

Afternoon: Pinacoteca Nazionale (1.5 hours). Portico di San Luca lower section or walk Via Zamboni (university district). Aperitivo on Via del Pratello (bohemian bar street, 18:00).

Return train: Depart Bologna Centrale 19:30-20:00. Back in Florence by 20:30.

This schedule is full but comfortable — no rushing between sites.

Practical notes

Bologna Centrale station: A major rail hub with good connections to all Italian cities. The station is 15 minutes’ walk from the historic centre, or take the bus (line A from the station, €1.50).

Currency and prices: Bologna is noticeably cheaper than Florence for restaurants and most services.

University atmosphere: Bologna’s historic centre is dense with students, particularly in October-June when the university is in session. This gives the streets, bars and restaurants a particularly lively character.

Weather: Bologna’s Po Valley location means summer heat (35°C+) with high humidity, and winter fog. Spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October) are ideal.

Frequently asked questions about Bologna

Is Bologna worth a day trip from Florence?

Absolutely. The train takes 37-40 minutes, making it one of the most accessible day trips from Florence. Bologna offers food culture, medieval towers, 40 kilometres of porticoes, the Pinacoteca Nazionale and an entirely different urban character from Florence. It is particularly rewarding for food enthusiasts.

How much does the train from Florence to Bologna cost?

Frecciarossa high-speed trains range from approximately €12 (advance booking, standard class) to €40+ (full-price last-minute booking, premium class). Book at least a few days ahead on Trenitalia.com or Italotreno.it for the best prices. The journey is 37-40 minutes.

What should I definitely eat in Bologna?

Tagliatelle al ragù (the original Bolognese sauce, on fresh pasta), mortadella (by the slice from a salumeria or in a tigella), and at minimum one glass of local Pignoletto wine. Tortellini in brodo if visiting in cooler months.

Is Bologna safe and easy to navigate?

Yes on both counts. The historic centre is compact, entirely pedestrian-friendly with porticoes providing shelter, and extremely walkable. Standard city precautions apply (watch bags in crowded markets).

How does Bologna compare to Florence for a day trip?

Bologna is more relaxed and less crowded than Florence, with a different character — university city, food culture, brick-and-portico aesthetics versus Florence’s Renaissance stone. They complement rather than substitute for each other. If choosing between them, Florence has more internationally famous art monuments; Bologna has better food and a more authentic daily-life atmosphere.

Can I visit Bologna and another city in the same day from Florence?

Bologna is sufficient for a full day on its own. Adding another city risks doing both inadequately. Modena (30 minutes by regional train from Bologna) could be combined with Bologna for those specifically interested in Parmigiano reggiano production and the Enzo Ferrari museum, but this makes for a rushed day.