Mugello

The Medici valley

The Mugello is the broad valley north of Florence through which the Sieve river flows, enclosed by the Apennine foothills on three sides and opening toward the Arno valley to the south. It is the ancestral homeland of the Medici family — before they were bankers and rulers of Florence, they were rural landowners in Mugello — and the valley is dotted with their early villas, parish churches and fortifications. Today it is a quiet, green, relatively un-touristy area that offers an entirely different character from the Renaissance city 30-40 kilometres to the south.

For visitors to Florence, Mugello serves primarily as a rural escape rather than a monument-focused destination. The draw is landscape: dense chestnut forests on the Apennine slopes, river valleys, hilltop villages, cycling routes and hiking trails through scenery that Florence’s central museums cannot provide. There is enough Medici heritage to give the excursion cultural content.

Getting there from Florence

By car (recommended): From Florence, take the SS65 (Via Bolognese) north from Piazza della Libertà through the Apennine passes, or the quicker SS302 north from the Autostrada. The SS65 through the hills is the scenic route (45-55 minutes to Borgo San Lorenzo). The faster A1 motorway cuts through tunnels and is quicker (35-40 minutes) but misses the hill scenery.

By train: The Faentina railway line runs from Florence Campo Marte station north through the Apennines to Borgo San Lorenzo and Faenza. Journey to Borgo San Lorenzo approximately 40 minutes. Trains run roughly hourly. This works for visiting Borgo San Lorenzo and the immediate valley; getting to more rural parts of Mugello requires a car or bike.

By SITA bus: Buses run from Florence’s bus station (Via Santa Caterina da Siena) to several Mugello towns including Scarperia and Borgo San Lorenzo.

Scarperia and the cutlery tradition

Scarperia, 30 kilometres north of Florence, is the most interesting town in the lower Mugello valley. Founded by the Florentine Republic in 1306 as a military outpost controlling the northern pass into Emilia-Romagna, it has a handsome medieval centre built on a regular grid — unusual for Tuscany — with the Palazzo dei Vicari at its heart. The palazzo’s exterior is covered with stone escutcheons (coats of arms) of the successive Florentine governors who served here, making it one of the more unusual civic monuments in the region.

Scarperia has been famous since the 14th century for the production of bladed tools: knives, scissors, hunting knives and artisanal cutlery. Several workshops and shops in the town still produce and sell handmade blades using traditional methods. The Museo dei Ferri Taglienti (Museum of Cutting Instruments) in the Palazzo dei Vicari documents this craft history. Admission approximately €4.

Medici villas in Mugello

The Medici family built several villas in the Mugello as retreats and symbols of their rural origins.

Villa Medicea di Cafaggiolo (near Barberino del Mugello): One of the oldest Medici residences, converted from a castle by Michelozzo in 1445. Lorenzo il Magnifico spent time here. Now privately owned and not regularly open to the public, but the exterior and grounds are visible from the road. It retains the crenellated towers of its castle origin.

Villa Medicea del Trebbio (near Sant’Piero a Sieve): A smaller Medici property also converted by Michelozzo, on a hillside above the Sieve valley. Similar restricted access.

Convento del Bosco ai Frati (near Borgo San Lorenzo): A Franciscan convent on a wooded hillside, also restored by Michelozzo for Cosimo il Vecchio. Contains a painted crucifix attributed to Donatello. Open to visitors (free); one of the most atmospheric Medici-era sites in Mugello and rarely visited.

The Autodromo del Mugello

The Mugello Circuit (Autodromo Internazionale del Mugello), located near Scarperia, is one of the finest and most challenging race tracks in the world. The Italian Grand Prix of MotoGP is held here annually (typically May-June), making it one of the most atmospheric events in world motorsport. The surrounding Apennine hillsides fill with Italian MotoGP fans, campers and flags, and the track’s layout — winding through the hills with spectacular scenery — makes it visually extraordinary as a race venue.

Outside race events, the circuit offers track days and driving experiences. Check mugellociruito.it for current schedules.

Landscape, walking and cycling

The Mugello’s greatest asset is its landscape. The Apennine hills north and east of the valley are covered with chestnut forests, beech woods and hiking paths. Several established cycling routes cross the valley, including sections of the VENTO route (Venice-Turin cycle path) and the Ciclopista del Sole.

Chestnut season (October-November): The Mugello chestnut harvest is celebrated with sagre (festivals) in various villages throughout October. Local chestnuts are roasted, made into flour (farina di castagne) for the typical Tuscan chestnut cake (castagnaccio) and sold at roadside stands.

Lago di Bilancino: A reservoir lake in the western Mugello, created in the 1990s. The lakeside area has cycle paths, beaches and water sports in summer. A pleasant afternoon stop.

Combining Mugello with other stops

Mugello can be combined with Fiesole for a northern hills day — leaving Florence, stopping at Fiesole for 2 hours, continuing north through the Apennine foothills to Scarperia or Borgo San Lorenzo.

The Florence-Bologna road (SS65, “Passo della Futa”) passes through the heart of the Mugello and is the historic route connecting the two cities before the motorway. Driving this road rather than the motorway when travelling to Bologna adds 20-25 minutes but passes through extraordinary Apennine landscape. See our Bologna guide for the onward destination.

Practical tips

Best season: Spring (April-May) for green hills and mild temperatures. Autumn (October-November) for chestnut harvest and warm-coloured foliage. Summer weekends see local Florentines heading to the hills for cooler air.

Scarperia knife shopping: If buying a handmade knife at Scarperia, check airline regulations for carrying bladed items in hand luggage before purchase. Checked luggage is permitted; hand luggage is not, regardless of blade length.

MotoGP timing: If the Italian MotoGP falls during your Florence visit (typically first or second week of June), the Mugello race weekend is worth considering — tickets from €50-150 for race day, atmosphere extraordinary.

Frequently asked questions about Mugello

Is Mugello worth visiting as a day trip from Florence?

For those interested in Tuscany’s rural character, Medici heritage outside the city, cycling, or chestnut season landscapes, yes. It is not Florence’s most spectacular day trip destination in terms of monuments, but it offers a genuinely different experience from the Renaissance city.

What is the Mugello best known for besides the Medici?

The annual Italian MotoGP race (Mugello Circuit), the traditional knife-making craft at Scarperia, the chestnut forests and associated autumn festivals, and cycling routes through the Apennine foothills.

Can I visit Mugello without a car?

The Faentina train line reaches Borgo San Lorenzo (40 minutes from Florence). From Borgo San Lorenzo, exploring the wider valley and the more rural Medici sites requires a car or bicycle. The train option works for a Borgo San Lorenzo and immediate surroundings visit.

Is the Mugello Circuit open for visits?

Yes for track days and occasional open days. The main public events are the MotoGP race weekend and other motorsport events throughout the year. Check mugellociruito.it for the current season calendar.