Viareggio

Tuscany’s resort city

Viareggio occupies a specific role in the Tuscany travel picture: it is the only real beach resort within easy reach of Florence, and as a result it is genuinely popular with Florentines for summer day trips and weekends. For international visitors it’s less commonly visited, but it has genuine points of interest beyond swimming.

The boardwalk and Art Nouveau architecture

Viareggio’s promenade (Passeggiata Margherita) is lined with Art Nouveau buildings dating from the early 20th century — the period after a catastrophic fire destroyed the original wooden boardwalk buildings in 1917 and the city rebuilt in a unified decorative style. The Gran Caffè Margherita (1929) and the bathing establishment buildings (stabilimenti balneari) are the most characteristic examples. Walking the full length of the promenade takes about 30 minutes and is worth it.

The beach

Most of Viareggio’s beach is organized into private stabilimenti — beach clubs that rent umbrellas, sun loungers and changing facilities (typically €15-30 per person per day in peak season). The service is efficient and comfortable; showers, bars and restaurant service are included.

Free public beach sections (spiaggia libera) exist at the northern and southern ends of the bay. The northern section near Vecchiano is larger and less crowded but requires transport to reach.

The sand is fine and the sea is generally calm (the Gulf of Genoa provides some shelter). Water quality is good by Ligurian and Tyrrhenian standards. Not the dramatic scenery of Cinque Terre, but a genuinely pleasant day at the beach.

Viareggio Carnival

The Carnevale di Viareggio (February, before Lent) is among the most famous in Italy after Venice. The defining feature is enormous papier-mâché floats — some reaching 20 metres in height — that parody Italian and international political figures. The floats are satirical and often sharp; the tradition dates from 1873. Five parade nights are held on the main boulevard, with around 300,000 spectators per edition.

If you’re visiting Tuscany in February, the Viareggio Carnival is worth timing your trip around. Tickets for the grandstand areas cost €15-30; the pavements are free. Book accommodation well in advance — Viareggio and nearby Lucca fill up for the parade weekends.

Getting there

From Florence: Change at Pisa Centrale or take a direct train (some services run directly). Journey time: approximately 1h30-2h depending on service. Tickets €10-18 on Trenitalia.

From Lucca: Direct regional train, 25-30 minutes, €3-5.

By car: The A11 autostrada connects Florence to Viareggio. Journey about 1h15. Paid parking near the beach in summer.

Where to eat

Viareggio is serious about seafood. The Versilia coast has its own traditions: cacciucco (Livornese fish stew, also popular here), fritto misto di mare (mixed fried seafood), and various preparations of the local red mullet (triglia) and sea bass (branzino).

• Ristorante Romano (Via Mazzini 122): One of the most established seafood restaurants; not cheap but high quality.
• Da Piero (Piazza Mazzini): More informal, good fritto misto at fair prices.
• Market stands near the port sell fresh focaccia and fried fish for a cheap lunch option.